Brewing Your First Beer - Revision history

Jomebrew: Reverted edits by Moltqa (talk) to last revision by BrewWiki

2015-09-02T15:48:57Z

Reverted edits by Moltqa (talk) to last revision by BrewWiki

← Older revision		Revision as of 15:48, 2 September 2015
Line 63:		Line 63:
	Siphon the finished beer into your priming bucket, trying very hard not to splash it around or mix any air in with it. Add 2/3 cup of priming sugar (I recommend corn sugar) to your beer and very gently mix it in. Next siphon the beer into your bottles using your bottle filler. Be sure to leave at least an inch or more of empty space at the top of your bottle to aid in fermentation. Put the caps on each bottle as you go and use your bottle capper to secure them.		Siphon the finished beer into your priming bucket, trying very hard not to splash it around or mix any air in with it. Add 2/3 cup of priming sugar (I recommend corn sugar) to your beer and very gently mix it in. Next siphon the beer into your bottles using your bottle filler. Be sure to leave at least an inch or more of empty space at the top of your bottle to aid in fermentation. Put the caps on each bottle as you go and use your bottle capper to secure them.

	~~[http://moltqa~~.l-~~alwed~~.~~com ملتقى الاحبة ]~~		==Aging==
	~~موقع تعارف ادخل و تعرف الآن~~ ~~- أعضاء جدد يومياً - تجمع خليجي~~		The most difficult part by far is waiting for your beer to come of age. While most beers are drinkable after a few weeks, the average homebrew reaches peak flavor anywhere from 8 weeks to 15 weeks after brewing. Most homebrewers simply can't wait this long. During the aging process your beer will carbonate and excess yeast, tannins and proteins that create off flavors will fall out of your beer and settle to the bottom of the bottle. This will substantially improve your beer. I personally recommend waiting about 3-4 weeks after bottling before sampling your first brew.

			Store your bottles in a cool, dark place. Unless you are brewing a lager under temperature controlled conditions, do not store your beer in the refrigerator for the first two weeks. Give it two weeks to fully carbonate at room temperature. After the first two weeks, refrigerating the beer will help it improve more quickly because the tannins, yeast and protein will sediment faster at cold temperature.

	==Drinking==		==Drinking==

Moltqa: /* Priming and Bottling */

2015-09-02T07:20:24Z

Priming and Bottling

← Older revision		Revision as of 07:20, 2 September 2015
Line 64:		Line 64:

	[http://moltqa.l-alwed.com ملتقى الاحبة ]		[http://moltqa.l-alwed.com ملتقى الاحبة ]

	~~[[File:http://store1.up-00.com/2015-09/144117825831.gif ]]~~
	موقع تعارف ادخل و تعرف الآن - أعضاء جدد يومياً - تجمع خليجي		موقع تعارف ادخل و تعرف الآن - أعضاء جدد يومياً - تجمع خليجي

Moltqa: /* ملتقى الاحبة */

2015-09-02T07:19:16Z

ملتقى الاحبة

← Older revision		Revision as of 07:19, 2 September 2015
Line 63:		Line 63:
	Siphon the finished beer into your priming bucket, trying very hard not to splash it around or mix any air in with it. Add 2/3 cup of priming sugar (I recommend corn sugar) to your beer and very gently mix it in. Next siphon the beer into your bottles using your bottle filler. Be sure to leave at least an inch or more of empty space at the top of your bottle to aid in fermentation. Put the caps on each bottle as you go and use your bottle capper to secure them.		Siphon the finished beer into your priming bucket, trying very hard not to splash it around or mix any air in with it. Add 2/3 cup of priming sugar (I recommend corn sugar) to your beer and very gently mix it in. Next siphon the beer into your bottles using your bottle filler. Be sure to leave at least an inch or more of empty space at the top of your bottle to aid in fermentation. Put the caps on each bottle as you go and use your bottle capper to secure them.

	~~==Aging==~~		[http://moltqa.l-alwed.com ملتقى الاحبة ]
	~~The most difficult part by far is waiting for your beer to come of age~~. While most beers are drinkable after a few weeks, the average homebrew reaches peak flavor anywhere from 8 weeks to 15 weeks after brewing. Most homebrewers simply can't wait this long. During the aging process your beer will carbonate and excess yeast, tannins and proteins that create off flavors will fall out of your beer and settle to the bottom of the bottle. This will substantially improve your beer. I personally recommend waiting about 3-~~4 weeks after bottling before sampling your first brew~~.

	~~Store your bottles in a cool, dark place~~. ~~Unless you are brewing a lager under temperature controlled conditions, do not store your beer in the refrigerator for the first two weeks~~. ~~Give it two weeks to fully carbonate at room temperature.~~ ~~After the first two weeks, refrigerating the beer will help it improve more quickly because the tannins, yeast and protein will sediment faster at cold temperature.~~		[[File:http://store1.up-00.com/2015-09/144117825831.gif ]]
			موقع تعارف ادخل و تعرف الآن - أعضاء جدد يومياً - تجمع خليجي

	==Drinking==		==Drinking==

BrewWiki at 04:27, 26 June 2014

2014-06-26T04:27:11Z

← Older revision		Revision as of 04:27, 26 June 2014
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	{{BrewWiki Title\|name=Brewing Your First Beer}}		{{BrewWiki Title\|name=Brewing Your First Beer}}
	Brewing at home for the first time? This simple guide takes you through your first batch of beer including what's needed, how to brew and how to bottle. A short guide for the new homebrewer on how to brew your first [[Extract\|extract]] beer!		Brewing at home for the first time? This simple guide takes you through your first batch of beer including what's needed, how to brew and how to bottle. A short guide for the new homebrewer on how to brew your first [[Extract\|extract]] beer!

			Author's Note: John Palmer and Brad Smith have a new [http://beersmith.com/dvd "How to Brew with Malt Extract"] video/DVD which walks you through step by step brewing your first batch of beer, and is highly recommended for beginners.
	<table align=right><td></td></table>		<table align=right><td></td></table>

Line 18:		Line 20:
	* '''A Sterilizing solution''' - Household bleach can be used, but it must be thoroughly rinsed to prevent contamination. Your brew store may also have other alternatives such as iodophor and starsan that also sterilize well.		* '''A Sterilizing solution''' - Household bleach can be used, but it must be thoroughly rinsed to prevent contamination. Your brew store may also have other alternatives such as iodophor and starsan that also sterilize well.

	You can purchase many of these items at your local brew stores or online~~. Some websites such as [http://www.makebeer.net Makebeer.net] offer great starter kits~~. As you get more experienced you can expand on these kits or purchase more experienced kits from other sites.		You can purchase many of these items at your local brew stores or online. As you get more experienced you can expand on these kits or purchase more experienced kits from other sites.

	===Ingredients Needed===		===Ingredients Needed===

BrewWiki at 18:49, 23 May 2012

2012-05-23T18:49:48Z

← Older revision		Revision as of 18:49, 23 May 2012
Line 1:		Line 1:
	{{BrewWiki Title\|name=Brewing Your First Beer}}		{{BrewWiki Title\|name=Brewing Your First Beer}}
	Brewing at home for the first time? This simple guide takes you through your first batch of beer including what's needed, how to brew and how to bottle. A short guide for the new homebrewer on how to brew your first [[Extract\|extract]] beer!		Brewing at home for the first time? This simple guide takes you through your first batch of beer including what's needed, how to brew and how to bottle. A short guide for the new homebrewer on how to brew your first [[Extract\|extract]] beer!
	<table align=right><td>~~[[image:Beer_mug.png]]~~</td></table>		<table align=right><td></td></table>

	===Equipment Needed===		===Equipment Needed===

Jomebrew: Reverted edits by AWild43 (talk) to last revision by Cmurtaugh

2011-10-05T14:57:13Z

Reverted edits by AWild43 (talk) to last revision by Cmurtaugh

← Older revision		Revision as of 14:57, 5 October 2011
Line 50:		Line 50:
	The wort at this stage is very vulnerable to infection so you need to make sure that your fermentor, airlock, siphon tubes and anything else that touches the wort or yeast are thoroughly sterilized. I use a solution of 5 gallons of water and small amount of household bleach to sterilize my equipment. However if you use bleach you must carefully rinse everything with hot water or you risk leaving your beer with a chlorine taste.		The wort at this stage is very vulnerable to infection so you need to make sure that your fermentor, airlock, siphon tubes and anything else that touches the wort or yeast are thoroughly sterilized. I use a solution of 5 gallons of water and small amount of household bleach to sterilize my equipment. However if you use bleach you must carefully rinse everything with hot water or you risk leaving your beer with a chlorine taste.

	Your wort must be fully cooled to room temperature (72 F or so) and siphoned or dumped into your fermentor before you add (pitch) your yeast. Don't worry too much about all of the gunk (hops and proteins) in the <span class="plainlinks">[http://ibsdietplan.org <span style="color:black;font-weight:normal;text-decoration:none!important;background:none!important; text-decoration:none;/CITATION//9TA5BOR0AE/">irritable bowel syndrome</span>]</span> wort - most of it will fall to the bottom during fermentation. Pitching yeast in hot wort will probably kill it off, so wait until your wort has fully cooled before adding yeast. I highly recommend the use of liquid yeast as it is far superior in quality to dry yeast. Liquid yeast comes in either a plastic tube or smack pack. The plastic tube type can be added directly to the wort. The foil smack-packs require you to pop an internal pouch containing the yeast several hours before pitching it to allow the yeast to grow in a self contained starter. Follow the instructions on your yeast pack to prepare it and then carefully add it to your fermentor. Once the yeast has been added and mixed in, close the top, fit your airlock (which needs a little water in it) and set your beer in a dark cool place where the temperature is steady.		Your wort must be fully cooled to room temperature (72 F or so) and siphoned or dumped into your fermentor before you add (pitch) your yeast. Don't worry too much about all of the gunk (hops and proteins) in the wort - most of it will fall to the bottom during fermentation. Pitching yeast in hot wort will probably kill it off, so wait until your wort has fully cooled before adding yeast. I highly recommend the use of liquid yeast as it is far superior in quality to dry yeast. Liquid yeast comes in either a plastic tube or smack pack. The plastic tube type can be added directly to the wort. The foil smack-packs require you to pop an internal pouch containing the yeast several hours before pitching it to allow the yeast to grow in a self contained starter. Follow the instructions on your yeast pack to prepare it and then carefully add it to your fermentor. Once the yeast has been added and mixed in, close the top, fit your airlock (which needs a little water in it) and set your beer in a dark cool place where the temperature is steady.

	Your airlock should begin bubbling within 12-36 hours, and continue fermenting for about a week. If you see no bubbles from the airlock, check the fit on your plastic pail and airlock. Often plastic fermentors have a poor seal on the lid that leaks. The bubbles in the airlock are CO2 produced by the fermentation, and will slowly tail off as fermentation nears completion. Assuming you have a good seal, the bubbles should slow to one every minute or two before you consider bottling. As a minimum I would ferment for a week before considering bottling a beer.		Your airlock should begin bubbling within 12-36 hours, and continue fermenting for about a week. If you see no bubbles from the airlock, check the fit on your plastic pail and airlock. Often plastic fermentors have a poor seal on the lid that leaks. The bubbles in the airlock are CO2 produced by the fermentation, and will slowly tail off as fermentation nears completion. Assuming you have a good seal, the bubbles should slow to one every minute or two before you consider bottling. As a minimum I would ferment for a week before considering bottling a beer.

AWild43: None

2011-10-05T13:47:38Z

None

← Older revision		Revision as of 13:47, 5 October 2011
Line 50:		Line 50:
	The wort at this stage is very vulnerable to infection so you need to make sure that your fermentor, airlock, siphon tubes and anything else that touches the wort or yeast are thoroughly sterilized. I use a solution of 5 gallons of water and small amount of household bleach to sterilize my equipment. However if you use bleach you must carefully rinse everything with hot water or you risk leaving your beer with a chlorine taste.		The wort at this stage is very vulnerable to infection so you need to make sure that your fermentor, airlock, siphon tubes and anything else that touches the wort or yeast are thoroughly sterilized. I use a solution of 5 gallons of water and small amount of household bleach to sterilize my equipment. However if you use bleach you must carefully rinse everything with hot water or you risk leaving your beer with a chlorine taste.

	Your wort must be fully cooled to room temperature (72 F or so) and siphoned or dumped into your fermentor before you add (pitch) your yeast. Don't worry too much about all of the gunk (hops and proteins) in the wort - most of it will fall to the bottom during fermentation. Pitching yeast in hot wort will probably kill it off, so wait until your wort has fully cooled before adding yeast. I highly recommend the use of liquid yeast as it is far superior in quality to dry yeast. Liquid yeast comes in either a plastic tube or smack pack. The plastic tube type can be added directly to the wort. The foil smack-packs require you to pop an internal pouch containing the yeast several hours before pitching it to allow the yeast to grow in a self contained starter. Follow the instructions on your yeast pack to prepare it and then carefully add it to your fermentor. Once the yeast has been added and mixed in, close the top, fit your airlock (which needs a little water in it) and set your beer in a dark cool place where the temperature is steady.		Your wort must be fully cooled to room temperature (72 F or so) and siphoned or dumped into your fermentor before you add (pitch) your yeast. Don't worry too much about all of the gunk (hops and proteins) in the <span class="plainlinks">[http://ibsdietplan.org <span style="color:black;font-weight:normal;text-decoration:none!important;background:none!important; text-decoration:none;/CITATION//9TA5BOR0AE/">irritable bowel syndrome</span>]</span> wort - most of it will fall to the bottom during fermentation. Pitching yeast in hot wort will probably kill it off, so wait until your wort has fully cooled before adding yeast. I highly recommend the use of liquid yeast as it is far superior in quality to dry yeast. Liquid yeast comes in either a plastic tube or smack pack. The plastic tube type can be added directly to the wort. The foil smack-packs require you to pop an internal pouch containing the yeast several hours before pitching it to allow the yeast to grow in a self contained starter. Follow the instructions on your yeast pack to prepare it and then carefully add it to your fermentor. Once the yeast has been added and mixed in, close the top, fit your airlock (which needs a little water in it) and set your beer in a dark cool place where the temperature is steady.

	Your airlock should begin bubbling within 12-36 hours, and continue fermenting for about a week. If you see no bubbles from the airlock, check the fit on your plastic pail and airlock. Often plastic fermentors have a poor seal on the lid that leaks. The bubbles in the airlock are CO2 produced by the fermentation, and will slowly tail off as fermentation nears completion. Assuming you have a good seal, the bubbles should slow to one every minute or two before you consider bottling. As a minimum I would ferment for a week before considering bottling a beer.		Your airlock should begin bubbling within 12-36 hours, and continue fermenting for about a week. If you see no bubbles from the airlock, check the fit on your plastic pail and airlock. Often plastic fermentors have a poor seal on the lid that leaks. The bubbles in the airlock are CO2 produced by the fermentation, and will slowly tail off as fermentation nears completion. Assuming you have a good seal, the bubbles should slow to one every minute or two before you consider bottling. As a minimum I would ferment for a week before considering bottling a beer.

Cmurtaugh: /* Drinking */

2011-09-24T12:59:20Z

Drinking

← Older revision		Revision as of 12:59, 24 September 2011
Line 67:		Line 67:

	==Drinking==		==Drinking==
	The blessed day has finally arrived to sample your creation. During the aging process excess yeast, tannins and proteins will settle to the bottom of your bottle. Get a clean glass, open your brew, and gently ~~poor~~ most of your beer into the glass leaving only the sediment and a small amount of beer in your bottle. Don't worry if you take a little sediment into the glass - it won't hurt you though it may not improve the taste of your brew. Smell the fresh beer, admire the frothy head, and then sip (don't guzzle) your first homebrew and enjoy! As always, please drink responsibly.		The blessed day has finally arrived to sample your creation. During the aging process excess yeast, tannins and proteins will settle to the bottom of your bottle. Get a clean glass, open your brew, and gently pour most of your beer into the glass leaving only the sediment and a small amount of beer in your bottle. Don't worry if you take a little sediment into the glass - it won't hurt you though it may not improve the taste of your brew. Smell the fresh beer, admire the frothy head, and then sip (don't guzzle) your first homebrew and enjoy! As always, please drink responsibly.

	==See Also==		==See Also==

Homebrew: /* External Links */

2010-04-27T18:55:08Z

External Links

← Older revision		Revision as of 18:55, 27 April 2010
Line 81:		Line 81:
	* [http://www.brewium.com/ Introduction to Home Brewing DVD by Brewium]		* [http://www.brewium.com/ Introduction to Home Brewing DVD by Brewium]
	* [http://breworganic.com/tips/virtual_class.htm Virtual Introduction to Brewing Class]		* [http://breworganic.com/tips/virtual_class.htm Virtual Introduction to Brewing Class]
	* [http://www.homebrewguide.info Home Brew Guide]		* [http://www.homebrewguide.info Home Brew Guide] - PDF Guide on Home Brewing + 640 Recipes
	[[Category: processes]]		[[Category: processes]]
	[[Category:Glossary]]		[[Category:Glossary]]

Homebrew: /* External Links */

2010-04-27T18:53:29Z

External Links

← Older revision		Revision as of 18:53, 27 April 2010
Line 81:		Line 81:
	* [http://www.brewium.com/ Introduction to Home Brewing DVD by Brewium]		* [http://www.brewium.com/ Introduction to Home Brewing DVD by Brewium]
	* [http://breworganic.com/tips/virtual_class.htm Virtual Introduction to Brewing Class]		* [http://breworganic.com/tips/virtual_class.htm Virtual Introduction to Brewing Class]
			* [http://www.homebrewguide.info Home Brew Guide]
	[[Category: processes]]		[[Category: processes]]
	[[Category:Glossary]]		[[Category:Glossary]]